Amber Nifong: Fashion showcase
Amber Nifong, a fourth-year fashion design major from High Point, North Carolina. Photo by Crosby Ignasher.
Written by Shelby Katz
What was the design process like?
It started last summer, when they gave us this assignment. Luckily my Senior I professor is really tough, because if it had been any other professor, they would have run the other way when I said I was doing a couture collection based on darkness and decay. I showed her my fabrics, and told her I wanted to use leather and silk organza, and then I pull out nylon spandex and she tells me, “Amber, that’s not a couture fabric.” I was like, “Oh, don’t worry. I’m going to set it on fire!” They thought I was bananas.
How would you describe the experience?
It’s been a long process, using a lot of couture techniques. All of my garments are finished with roll hems because they’re all sheer. I’m really into draping as well, which is a very couture technique; you don’t flat pattern in couture. I ended up only using three fabrics: leather, nylon and organza. I took one class this year so I could create this couture collection, but I don’t think I knew the madness I was delving into, or how deep down the rabbit hole I was jumping at that point.
What inspires you in your design, and what inspired this collection in particular?
My whole collection is a bit of a personal commentary, I would suppose. My collection itself is based on darkness and the idea of the macabre. Normally, as a culture, and in general as a whole, people look at the idea of inner darkness as a negative thing and something that’s evil and that should be pushed away. I wanted to explore the idea of darkness as something beautiful and exquisite and something that could be embraced.
I’ve been through things in my life and I’ve realized that even our darkest parts can be beautiful and even painful things we go through can make us more beautiful as people. We shouldn’t hide darkness; it can be exquisite and refined and stunning. That’s really how I wanted to embrace this collection
Can you describe your aesthetic?
I have a very romanticized idea of darkness in my aesthetic. You can’t go literal with something this creepy. It’s very dark, very McQueen, very whimsical with a mix of edgy. I like to play with texture, and I really identify with Gareth Pugh and Dior (circa Galliano). If it’s weird, I like it.
What are your feelings about the show?
The only thing I’m nervous about is looking presentable. I’ve had a little bit more time recently, where I’ve actually looked in the mirror and realized I’ve actually been going out in public like this. The running joke with the seniors is that the higher up you get in fashion, the worse your dress is going to get, because you’re so tired and just don’t care how you look anymore.
Other than that I’m super pumped. This has been very surreal. I’ve gotten great feedback from the jurors and from the faculty that have known me for so long. I’ve had a lot of ups and downs in my career at SCAD and I finally feel like I’ve come out on top of my aesthetic. I feel strongly about what I created, I’m proud of myself, what I’ve accomplished and who I’ve become, and my family gets to come see that.
How has this prepared you for the future?
I feel very prepared. My design sense has been very honed in, my sewing skills are impeccable…but I don’t think I’ll ever work this hard again in my life. My friend and I were talking about how this is the last summer we’ll ever have, but I reminded her, “We’ll get back weekends; we can sleep again!” SCAD may over prepare you, but maybe that’s a good thing. I will say I’ll never be sleeping in a fabric bin, because I’m that tired, ever again.
Do you have any professional experience in the industry?
I did an internship in high school, as a senior. It was a fabric design internship designing textiles for a company in High Point, North Carolina. They do wholesale and sell to places like Neiman Marcus, privately. I also interned at Maggie Norris last summer in New York. I had some other offers I was excited about, but ended up going with Maggie because I was so interested in couture, and that was the closest I’d get to it in the States.
When did you decide to pursue a career in fashion?
I’ve always been interested in couture. And I’ve been interested in fashion since I was super small. I was sketching in third grade drawing clothes.
What do you think are some of the most pressing issues facing fashion designers and models today?
I think a big issue that will always exist is price point. How do you meet your price point but still have something that’s chic and wearable? People are becoming more savvy. We’ve reached an age of information where your average person can get online and see what’s trendy and they are going to want to go to Wal-Mart and say, “I want that at a price point I can afford.” In years to come, people are going to have more access to these things, but won’t have a grand to blow; they’ll have $15 to blow. But where do you get labor that is affordable to people without exploiting people and children? Maybe people need to be willing to pay a higher price point for something that is ethically sound.
Another issue is the question of whether or not couture is dying. There are only a few houses still alive. And for someone like me, it hurts. I can see the side of the argument that says it’s so expensive, but its art; it feeds people’s souls. I think as long as people thrive off art, there will be couture, or at least that would be my wish.
In terms of modeling, there’s always been a prevalence of eating disorders. I’m a big advocate about that issue. I’ve explored that a lot in my illustration career as well. I don’t care what size my model is, as long as she isn’t doing anything to compromise that unnaturally. It’s something I’m very aware of and sensitive to. I’m sorry, but designers push models to look like coat hangers. There is a certain aesthetic that looks good with clothes, but I don’t agree with women dying for a certain aesthetic. It’s completely ridiculous and it will continue to be an issue as long as people are vain.
Do you have any advice for future designers?
Do what you want to do. Follow your passion. Even if it’s a very weird aesthetic or you’re told it won’t work, follow your heart. This is your one chance where you get to shine and express your true aesthetic. Even if nobody believes in you, you have to believe in you and keep pushing. If you’re letting someone bully you around and change it, you’ll be very unhappy. At the end of the day, you have to love it enough to sit with it for a year.
Would you like to add anything else?
For the designers that didn’t make it — and for those that did — I’m very honored to be a part of this class. There are so many talented people this year and I’m excited to see where everyone goes.
