By Taylor Justin
“What came first, the chicken or the egg? I say they are equal, and rely on each other, same applies to retail,” said Jackie Livdini, an international retail and fashion expert.
Livindi, who was named as one by the New York Daily News as one of the “100 most influential people in the fashion industry,” moderated and contributed to the lecture at Arnold Hall April 28.
The small, intimate lecture was entitled “Design with Retail in Mind.” The panel lecture not only included Lividini but Brian Bolke and Robert Rufino.
Bolke is the co-owner to Dallas boutique Forth Five Ten, a boutique that stocks fashion brands from Givenchy to Alexander McQueen. Rufino is the former vice president of creative services for Tiffany & Co. and Senior Editor-At-Large for House Beautiful magazine
The discussion included topics like commerce in retail, educating the consumer and distribution of products in retail.
Lividini began with the topic on commerce in the retail industry of fashion companies. Both Rufino and Bolke gave their opinions on this subject.
When it comes to commercializing in retail, according to Rufino, it can be a “seamless transition, maintaining balance […] creative, innovative things will excite customers.”
Rufino’s experience with Tiffany & Co., as he shared that night with the audience, elaborated on this idea.
Rufino explained how Tiffany & Co. brought in a designer who had the idea to display jewelry above the cases on porcelain plates. “And it worked,” said Rufino. “When Tiffany believes in something, they go for it.”
Along with good designs come good branding of designs and Lividini proposed the question to both Bolke and Rufino, about which designers exemplify this idea.
Rufino answered with Chanel. “When I look at a Chanel suit or jacket, its taking something that has been there forever, that are basic things that is making it work,” he said.
Bolke referred to three designers: Muccia Prada, Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs. These designers, he said are “never afraid to tweak or change at a drop of a hat.”
He described them as having “really strong business people behind them; backing them up completely allowing those designers to absolutely creative.”
An ever growing trend in fashion are blogs, viewed as less-than-favorable by the panel. Lividini asked Bolke and Rufino who is responsible for informing, educating and validating designs for the customer.
“There is so much information that a consumer is getting, that is not necessarily good. It’s too much information for average woman to take on She is wanting fashion for a different reason, forcing the retailer to be specific in viewpoint,” said Bolke.
But does retail validate design? Does it ring true and favorable to the consumer?
“Stores right now have to make a bigger effort to make the store look so much better. Shop in a small store and trust those professionals,” said Rufino.
“It’s like going into someone’s closet that is really well stocked,” he added.
The panel said it is, essentially, all about the customer and his or her demands. But how do you choose what is best for the customer?
Bolke’s advice: “really, just forget about it all, and go with your gut. But that is fashion.”
Rufino elaborated on his perspective when it comes to the field of interior design in an editorial view point. “In the design perspective, keep in mind who the reader is. For House Beautiful, we published homes that look lived in, not a museum about light years of comfort.”
The panel had mixed feelings when it came to media in fashion.
“It helps the customer, and confuses the customer,” said Rufino.
“Too many choices, and all the magazines seem to be changing that way commercially”, said Lividini.
The panel agreed with Rufino when he said that magazines make “you to want run, run away. It’s a fantasy. It’s an art form. They inspire you.”
Bolke described magazines as becoming much more commercial. “Magazines are feeling more like a website,” he said.
Lastly, the panel discussed distribution channels such as eBay, Home Shopping and the Internet.
“Information overload,” said Bolke.
But there are those products that have been successful in Internet distribution.
Lividini proposed the question “What are some of the products that have combined design and idea that have become ingenious in today’s market?”
“The iPhone: the product that marries the two ideas,” responded Bolke.
“Cell phone,” said Rufino
Lividini answered more in the context of fashion. “Isaac Mizrahi’s first runway show, the purple moccasins, show something could actually happen in the world,” she said.
As final words from the panel of professionals, advice was given on inspiration, imitation and preparation.
Rufino suggested, “Looking all over, walking the streets. I get my ideas jogging.”
When it comes to imitation and good design, when comparing stores to Saks Fifth Avenue and Forever 21, Bolke broke the distinction between the two, “They [Forever 21] have done well with visual graphic language and merchandising, the difference is there is not a lot of appreciation for that stuff.”
And, finally, preparation: “Window should be essence of what you fashion should be,” said Livdini. The speakers agreed that researching in the field is important. They also emphasized that upcoming designers need to be able to market themselves and their brand.
Bolke had some final advice for the audience that evening.
“See what is working, what wasn’t working. Secure brand, true to who you are, what you believe,” he said.
