Written by Charytte Morrone.
Photograph by Crosby Ignasher.
Yesterday, April 14, SCAD was honored to host Eddie Borgo, a New York City-based jewelry designer, and Kate Lanphear, style director at T Magazine, The New York Times Style Magazine. Together the pair discussed fashion, fashion marketing and their love for the New York lifestyle.
Inside the SCAD Museum of Art, Dean of Fashion Michael Fink introduced the duo as some of the “nicest and smartest people” he knows. Walking in Borgo wore his trademark black velvet hat and Lanphear sported a chic look dressed in all black. Both have roots in Georgia, yet this is their first time in Savannah and they made sure to let everyone know how impressed and excited they were to be in the city and with SCAD.
They were also pleased with the more relaxed, conversational atmosphere the presentation took on. It wasn’t long before Lanphear began to fire away with her questions.
Q: How did you get started Eddie?
A: I moved to New York. I spent years collaborating on editorial shoots designing for other designers, and I moved from my love of art history to the history of adornment. Designers asked me to design jewelry for there runway shows. I apprenticed in Rhode Island and New York, but there was no grand plan. Everything was very organic.
Q: How have you dealt with setback?
A: Failure can be paralyzing. I never took time to consider the result, the win. Instead I looked at the experience as the award. I never gave up and stayed positive because it is an evolutionary learning experience.
After covering Borgo’s beginnings, Lanphear moved on to discuss brand identity and the importance of consistency through brand identity. Borgo spoke of his first collection, launched in 2008, and problems with the social media platform at the time, mainly that it didn’t exist. He also discussed issues with editorials and the way they covered his brand.
Q: Was there any editorial you hated?
A: Magazines would classify our brand as the “New York Rock and Roll” jewelry brand.
(Kate smirked and acknowledged her small hand in that.)
The way you perceive your brand isn’t always how others see it. I began to personally send out these posters with my brand message and collaborated with some creative friends including Kate.
Borgo paused to reference a favorite quote of his by Robert Mapplethrope that explained his brand’s focus on collecting rather than consuming. He said he wants his customer to be a collector, not just another shopper. This is an important part of his branding technique.
“Surrendering control you are often able to exceed what you expected and go somewhere organic.” – Mapplethrope.
Both guests then talked about guardrails and how by defining your identity it will then be easier to know when you’re on the wrong track. Lanphear honed in on how artists should be a bit disruptive, saying that many artistic messages today are stale and overdone. Artists and designers must disrupt the system by taking a new approach and “inspiring desire,” she said. She referenced Chanel’s Autumn/Winter 2014 “Grocery Store” show at the Grand Palais in Paris, mentioning how editors were shaken within the first few minutes of the show.
Then moving on from branding and artistic vision, Lanphear and Borgo discussed the artistic community that helps designers function.
Q: How important is the community?
A: It is important to listen to your peers and be involved in deep conversations. It keeps you grounded and gives you insight on an editor’s or retailer’s point of view. In New York, the sense of community is unique. I love New York! I am inspired by the architecture, energy, art and how embracing of new people New York is.
Q: How do you manage keeping everyone happy?
A: Last year I visited 27 different cities to meet the clients and receive real feedback. The power of communication is key. I want to romance and seduce my customers. I want to meet the mother, the daughter and the granddaughter and see how I’ve hooked the family through my message.
Q: What is your design process?
A: I am an advocate for hand sketches. They are romantic. We make everything 3D, so we can envision the final product. We use handcrafted hinges, cages, custom closures to our jewelry that is unique. We are proud to have a SCAD graduate on our design team. For our Spring/Summer 2014 collection I was inspired by the power of symbols.
Q: What are your parting words?
A: About the future, the opportunities are endless! Be open and willing to work hard. Have expectations but keep an open mind. Stay humble and listen. This is an exciting next stage.
After their conversation I could see how much Lanphear had influenced and supported Borgo’s journey thus far and how he trusted her. At the end of the day they are just people like you and me, people who like to dance and listen to the Rolling Stones, but people that never gave up on their dreams and work hard to see those dreams become reality.
