In Your Mouth: Zunzi’s

Where: 108 E. York St. (across from York Hall)
Who: Joe and Gabriella DeBeer
Favorites: Conquistador, Fisherman’s Deck, African tea

Under the rainbow umbrella outside Zunzi’s, I finished my Conquistador a few minutes before closing and ran in to ask Joe for an interview.

“Come in tomorrow after three,” he said.

After three the next day, I ordered an African tea and waited for him to have a free moment – which, if you know Zunzi’s, is rare.

“Come upstairs babe. You can ask me questions while I’m washing dishes.”

Before it opened in 2005, Zunzi’s was a deli. Downstairs, no more than seven people can fit inside – the rest wait in line under the local landmark yellow awning. If that isn’t homey enough, Joe shouts down the line, “What do you want babe?”

When you order something that is not in the serving line, one of the friendly employees says your order into a walkie talkie. While Joe washed dishes, I was introduced to one of the voices on the other end, Hakim. In a small room on the second floor, there was a large sink, a giant stainless steel refrigerator, a grill filled with chicken and sausage and little floor space for Joe and Hakim. I felt like a Zunzi’s V.I.P, but I tried to stay out of their way.

Joe moved to Savannah about 10 years ago from New York, but he’s originally from South Africa. His wife is Italian and grew up in Switzerland. But you don’t have to ask to find that out. Right outside four flags are flying: South Africa, America, Switzerland and Italy. Joe met his wife Gabriella while they both worked at Café Olympia on River St.

“She is the chef,” he said with a smile and a nudge to Hakim.

Zunzi’s keeps the business fresh with produce from the Farmer’s Market and meat from a local butcher. But that doesn’t keep them from spicing things up with an authentic international flare. Their menu consists of anything from lasagna (inspired by Gabriella’s grandmother’s recipe), to the “Big Boy Burger.”

“I chose the menu by choosing traditionals from both sides and the rest kind of fell into place. There’s so much good stuff.”

The homemade sausage is an authentic South African dish, and the African tea is worth a trip in itself. The infamous baked chicken was stumbled upon after Gabriella had some left over from a catering order, “and the rest is history.”

Zunzi’s is still a new kid on the historic Savannah block, but Joe was proud to tell me they have won “Best Take-Out in Savannah” three years in a row. They have never advertised and opened well before York Hall was built. In such a tucked away location, I was curious as to how they got such a faithful following. Joe was never worried.

“SCAD would find us,” he said.

With a menu of meals under $10, and proportions you’ll force yourself to finish, it’s no surprise that most of their clientele is students and locals. Even in such a small space, the walls are covered with flyers for local music events, gallery openings and film events. They do a lot of take-out and catering for many weddings, as well as social and business gatherings.

With no more than 10 employees, you feel like a regular in no time. If you’ve never been, Joe will be glad to make a suggestion. Get your paper plate full of perfectly spiced deliciousness, a cup of African tea (they will provide a sample if you are hesitant), and sit outside in the parking lot-turned-dining-area. No matter how long the line, Zunzi’s is always worth the wait.

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