Written by Ethan Mathews. Photo by Ethan Mathews.
Under a canopy of giant oaks cloaked in Spanish moss, a white Victorian gazebo stands tall in the center of Whitefield Square. On many Saturdays, intimate wedding ceremonies take place beneath its cover, and on Sundays, the congregation of Beth Eden Baptist Church floods the square’s grass with bold, floral hats and lightly loosened neckties.
Whitefield Square, designed in 1851, was the last square to be built in Savannah, 118 years after James Oglethorpe’s original four. Its name honors Reverend George Whitfield, who founded the oldest orphanage in the United States, the Bethesda Orphanage, after seeing the overwhelming number of orphaned children in the city.
Located on the intersection of Habersham and E Wayne St., the land once served as a burial ground for enslaved people when backyard burials were made illegal. Today, the residents of a neighboring senior living community fill its benches and make conversation before the sun comes up. Through weathered smiles, they spectate, commentate, and participate in the square’s daily affairs, summoning passersby for conversation about anything from childhood memories to the market price of eggs.
While Whitefield Square remains relatively free of large tourist crowds, visitors are sure to encounter a few unique characters on any given day.
On a trip to the square, you’ll likely find James, who is almost always heard before he is seen. As he bids good morning to every human (and dog) in sight, James fills the square with Spanish guitar playing from a radio in his rolling basket.
Another typical sighting in the square is Zeke Wilson, who, as a teenager, set the Georgia State Record for the fastest knockout, only 10 seconds into the first round. He went on to win multiple Golden Gloves and spar with legends like Smokin’ Joe Frazier and Larry Holmes. In his biggest fight, on September 11, 2000, he won a court battle in Massachusetts that set a precedent on same-race discrimination in America, Wilson v. McClure. Today, he sits on his bench in the square and tells people about his book.
These familiar faces breathe life into Whitefield Square, and in return, the square breathes new life into them. While many of them struggle with declining health in their final chapter, the square’s comings and goings keep their minds and bodies active.
But there’s one face, from the square to the whole Habersham block, that is so hard to miss, he might just track you down to warn you not to miss it again. His name is Julio.
As Julio approaches, you can tell his mood by the language he uses to greet you. “Hola” often means he has business to discuss, “shalom” means he’s ready to talk for five minutes or five hours, and usually comes with wine, and “guten tag” typically indicates a joking mood, with a readiness to whip out his old NYPD badge.
His 15 lb. Chihuahua, Missy, drags her stomach through the square and keeps him company as he walks and talks. Against all objections, Missy receives a diet of roast beef and ice cream.
While every Savannah square is full of rich history and gorgeous scenery, none quite match the encounters one is sure to have in Whitefield Square. Come visit James, Zeke, Julio, and Missy today and engage with the people that give life back to our squares.
